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FAQ's


Are you able to meet for pickup?

  •  Sure! Let us know where and we'll tell you if we can do that.  

Do you cull rats?

  • In short, yes. We call for temperament issues and severe health issues. It would be a complete nightmare to have sold a rat who bites your child. I have high standards for my rats because I value the safety of us humans. The temperament of a rat is largely genetic, so no, feeding them treats won't fix the genetic aggression that has been bred into the rat. Rats will bite out of fear or pain (in which the situation needs to be taken into account), and rats should not be afraid of humans. It is not fair to keep a rat living in fear of humans, especially when it is completely genetic. Part of being a responsible rat breeder is culling animals that would have a low QOL or are unsafe for humans. 

How do I get rats from you?​

  • If you want to get rats from me, here is how. First, you will need to fill out my buyer application.  Once you've filled it out, I will send you an email. Please do not be afraid to answer questions wrong, I will not automatically deny you. If you are willing to listen and be educated, then you are someone I'd be willing to work with. We all have to start somewhere, we weren't born experts. Once you've been approved, you will be added to my waitlist (which is usually a 2-3 month wait) You will be notified when a litter is born that you can get rats from. At four weeks typically, I accept deposits to reserve the rats you'd like/the ones I match you to. You will then receive weekly updates of your babies until pickup day-rats go home at eight weeks.  Our rats are $60 each, I do not, and will not charge more for coat color. I breed for health and temperament, not color. Please keep in mind that we will never sell single rats, they must go home in pairs at the least. Preference to buyers wanting a trio over a

Do you ever have adult rats available?

 

  • Yes! On rare occasions I do, they have usually retired breeding rats. I rehome them to people I trust greatly

What bedding do I use?​

  • We use kiln-dried pine bedding. We do not recommend paper bedding. As research has shown, paper beddings don't do a good job of controlling ammonia as pine does.

Why do you inbreed rats?

  • I get this question a lot, as humans we've been taught that inbreeding is bad because it IS with humans. But here is why it is not bad with rats and is actually beneficial. Rats have an extremely large gene pool, babies reach sexual maturity at 5-6 weeks and need to be separated to prevent underage breeding. In the wild, rats will breed with every rat as the does( girls) go into heat every few days. Inbreeding in the wild is inevitable, and if inbreeding had the same detrimental genetic defects that we see in humans, we would have no rat species. As being at the bottom of the food chain means you need to breed quickly so you can be food for predators (ever heard the phrase, "breed like rabbits?" this applies to rats as well) so what exactly does inbreeding do for breeding pet rats? When you inbreed, you usually see problems, such as a weak respiratory system, skittish temperament, and unstable temperaments to name a few. This is from the exposure of the recessive genes that would otherwise hide for generations if you continued to outcross. Inbreeding gives us breeders insight as to what health issues are in the lines, so we can reveal them quickly and breed away from them. Rats can be bred for up to 50+ generations without seeing direct defects that are from the inbreeding, and not the exposure of excessive genes. If I did not inbreed my rats I would be selling genetically unpredictable rats to the public which is something I am not interested in doing. 

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